We are already in the 4th chapter of our mega tutorial dedicated to the soundproofing of an entire commercial premises. If you have not yet seen the previous chapters, and you want to see them, at the end of this article you have the complete index, from where you can go to the chapter you want.
Well, continuing with what concerns us, today we will see how to machine Anchorage plaques.
When talking about machining, we are referring to the realization of the different holes on the one hand and, on the other hand, to the realization of the chamfering of some of the pieces for the subsequent welding operation.
Presentation of the chamfering of the pieces to carry out hidden or invisible welding
Plate drilling operation
As we will see below, the realization of the holes that we have to make in all the pieces, is not complicated at all. However, we will give some useful tips that you may not know, and that could come in handy.
As we already indicated in the second chapter, and in so many other of our video tutorials, in DIY it is necessary to put down on paper what we are going to do and how we are going to do it. As simple as the task is, if we do not make a plan or a simple freehand sketch, it is very likely that we will lead to failures due to a simple oversight.
In line with the above, we have included an image with the lateral diagram that we have made of the anchor plates, with the exact location of the different holes, as well as each and every one of the measurements.
Diagram of the anchor plates
The operation of machining the anchor plates, carried out with a manual drill, would be very hard and tedious, and we would also not be able to get the holes to be exactly in the same place.
We are going to achieve this in two ways. The first is using a column drill. And the second is making some stops as a very simple template with a couple of strips and a piece of wood. Do not miss the video that we have included below, so you can see how it is made.
In this way we will achieve that the machining of the Anchorage plaques be faster and more accurate. In addition, despite the 7mm thickness of the steel and the 11mm diameter of the drill, drilling will be very comfortable, without any physical effort.
Practical tips for drilling
Although, so that the drill bit does not deteriorate prematurely and last much longer, some recommendations should be taken into account than another:
- It is essential to lubricate and cool the drill bit with oil from time to time.
- Whenever drilling steel, a low number of revolutions should be used.
Drilling of the different pieces
Chamfering of the pieces
The other process is the beveling of the different pieces, in order to make an invisible weld on one of the faces of the Anchorage plaques.
We will practice a continuous or “cord” welding on both sides. In this way we will achieve very robust and resistant anchor plates.
Well, so that later the cord does not get in the way for the union with the wood, on one of the faces we will have to practice an invisible weld. And, for this, we have to bevel the edge of one of the faces of all the pieces.
We will do the beveling with the radial or grinder, but stationary mode. Therefore, we will fix it to its support.
Chamfering of the pieces for subsequent invisible welding
We have replaced the cutting disc with a roughing one. In this way the process will be faster, since it is considerably thicker than the cut one.
To carry out a fast and precise roughing, as is our custom, we have made a simple template on which we will slide the different pieces.
Once all the protections are in place, the grinder is in the attack position, and the steel profile is in place on the template, we just have to slide it as far as it will go.
In the video in the next section, you can see everything explained in a much more graphic way.
In this way we will have to proceed with all the pieces whose union goes at 180º, that is, a straight union.
Cut out some parts
Cut out some plates
And finally, we have to cut some of the pieces, to be able to save the aerial pipes that are close to the beam where the plates will be anchored.
To do this, we change the roughing disc for the cutting disc and, once the pieces have been marked, all we have to do is cut.
Be careful with the grinder, once you have a certain handling, you will not have a problem. But if you do not have experience in the use of this tool, you should use it with great caution, until you get the hang of it.
Video Tutorial of the machining of the plates
In the video that we include below, all the explanations that we have carried out so far are collected in just 4 minutes. Don’t stop watching it.
As you can see, this chapter has not been too complicated.
In the next one, we will see how to solder the different pieces of the Anchorage plaquesand how to protect them from corrosion.
Do not miss it!
I’ll wait for you!
Then I leave you the directory of the entire project, so you can navigate through it in the order you prefer.
Programming the soundproofing of a room
1st Part – Preparation of the structure.
1st Chapter – Introduction and work programming.
2nd Chapter – Layout, plan and measurement of the current soundproofing.
3rd Chapter – Measurement, marking and drilling of the beams.
4th Chapter – Drilling and machining of metal parts.
5th Chapter – Welding and protection of anchor plates.
6th Chapter – Placing the plates on the left side.
7th Chapter – Measurement of the angle of facing plates, welding and protection of these.
8th Chapter – Placement of plates in the first right lateral half.
9th Chapter – Installation of the first half of joists.
10th Chapter – Measurement of the angle of the rest of the plates, welding, protection and placement.
11th Chapter – Placement of the rest of the joists and completion of the first part.
2nd Part – Soundproofing of the ceiling.
12th Chapter – Acoustic materials and installation procedure.
13th Chapter – Step prior to soundproofing.
14th Chapter – Cutting and preparation of acoustic plates.
15th Chapter – Preparation of acoustic plates.
16th Chapter – Installation of soundproofing on the ceiling.
3rd Part – Vertical soundproofing.
17th Chapter – soundproofing of the walls.
18th Chapter – Soundproofing of shutter drums.
19th Chapter – Door soundproofing.
20th Chapter – New measurement of the final soundproofing and review of the work.
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